Oh how I love the Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh! As our tuk-tuk approached the grand, red carpet covered entrance, my heart did a little leap at the idea of non moldy pillows and toilets that actually flushed! Despite looking like grubby backpackers, they greeted us as warmly as royalty, although we could tell they were looking at us strangely. "Sit here madame, let me take your bag madame, please come in madame." Once we produced our gold card, however, their faces relaxed a little. Our room was everything an expensive hotel room should be, with a deep crevasse like bathtub, fluffy white goose down comforters and gallons of floral scented toiletries that we greedily hoarded. The balcony of our room looked onto the glamorous pool area, where we felt like chic jet setters as we langoured later in the evening dusk. As I sipped a G&T as bats flitted by and flowers rained down from the trees, I thought I must be in heaven. How I will be able to survive a backpacker hotel again after this luxurious experience I do not know.